Pre-Owned Handbag Glossary: Styles, Materials & Craftsmanship
From the supple grain of fine leather to the architectural lines of an iconic tote, luxury handbags tell a story of design, heritage, and craftsmanship. Yet like fine jewelry, handbags come with a language of their own — silhouettes, materials, construction techniques, and design codes that define both form and function.
This Handbag Glossary from The 1916 Company is designed to demystify that language. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or exploring your first investment piece, this guide offers clear definitions and context around the most important handbag terms — from enduring icons like the Birkin to everyday essentials such as the Neverfull.
Each entry explains not only what a term means, but why it matters, helping you better understand value, wearability, and craftsmanship when building a luxury handbag collection.
Table of Contents
Handbag Types & Styles
Tote Bag
A large, open-top bag with parallel handles designed for everyday versatility and generous capacity. One of the most recognizable examples is the Louis Vuitton Neverfull, prized for its lightweight construction and practicality.
Top-Handle Bag
A structured handbag carried by a single handle, often associated with classic elegance and formal styling. The Hermès Birkin is among the most iconic examples of this silhouette.
Shoulder Bag
Designed to rest comfortably on the shoulder, typically with a single strap. Shoulder bags balance function and polish, making them ideal for daily wear.
Crossbody Bag
Features a long strap worn across the body for hands-free convenience. Favored for travel and casual styling while still offering refined design.
Satchel
A structured bag with a top handle and optional shoulder strap, often featuring a flat base and secure closure for organization.
Clutch
A compact, handheld bag intended for evening or formal occasions, prioritizing style over storage.
Iconic Bags & Model Names
Birkin
A structured top-handle bag created by Hermès and regarded as one of the most coveted luxury handbags in the world. Known for its meticulous craftsmanship, premium leathers, and collector demand.
Kelly
Another Hermès icon, distinguished by its trapezoidal silhouette, single top handle, and detachable shoulder strap. More formal and compact than the Birkin, the Kelly is known for its refined structure and elegant proportions, making it a cornerstone of classic luxury handbag collections.
Neverfull
A lightweight tote by Louis Vuitton recognized for its durability, versatility, and spacious interior. Available in multiple sizes, it remains a staple entry point into luxury handbags.
Classic Flap
An iconic Chanel handbag defined by its quilted leather, interlocking CC turn-lock closure, and leather-woven chain strap. Designed for shoulder or crossbody wear, the Classic Flap is one of the most enduring symbols of Chanel craftsmanship and a foundational piece for collectors.
Lady Dior
A structured, quilted bag known for its architectural shape and refined detailing.
Materials & Leathers
Calfskin Leather
A smooth, refined leather valued for softness and durability. Often used in structured luxury handbags.
Epsom Leather
An embossed calfskin known for its resistance to scratches and ability to hold shape — frequently associated with structured Hermès styles.
Taurillon Leather
A grained calfskin offering softness with durability, commonly used in everyday luxury bags.
Canvas
A coated textile material prized for lightweight durability. Signature monogram canvases are a hallmark of Louis Vuitton.
Exotic Leather
Includes crocodile, alligator, ostrich, and lizard. Highly regulated and prized for rarity, texture, and craftsmanship.
Construction &Craftsmanship
Hand-Stitched Construction
A labor-intensive technique where seams are stitched by hand rather than machine, allowing greater control and longevity. Central to Hermès craftsmanship.
Structured Construction
Refers to bags designed to maintain their shape even when empty, often using reinforced panels or firm leathers.
Soft Construction
Bags designed to slouch or relax over time, emphasizing comfort and casual elegance.
Edge Painting
The process of sealing raw leather edges with layers of paint for durability and a polished finish.
Hardware & Finishing Details
Palladium Hardware
A silver-toned metal finish valued for durability and resistance to tarnish.
Gold-Plated Hardware
Adds warmth and contrast, commonly paired with darker leathers.
Turn-Lock Closure
A rotating metal clasp used for security and visual distinction, famously seen on Hermès bags.
Feet (Bag Feet)
Small metal studs on the base of a bag designed to protect the leather from wear.
Handbag Terminology & Collecting Language
- Top Handle Drop
The measurement from the handle to the top of the bag, indicating how the bag carries on the arm or hand. - Patina
The natural darkening that develops over time on untreated leather, particularly on Louis Vuitton vachetta. - Blind Stamp
A discreet marking inside a bag indicating date and origin, often used by Hermès. - Investment Bag
A handbag with sustained collector demand and strong resale value, often tied to craftsmanship, rarity, and brand heritage. - Condition Grade
A classification used in pre-owned luxury to describe wear, ranging from pristine to gently worn.
- Top Handle Drop
Quick Tips: Choosing The Right Bag
- Consider structure vs. softness based on how you plan to wear the bag
- Evaluate handle drop and strap length for comfort
- Lighter leathers show wear differently than grained or coated materials
- For collectors, original accessories and condition significantly impact value
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