More Than Meets the Eye: Color In Modern Watchmaking

Color hasn’t always played as big a role in watchmaking as it does today. For centuries, the palette of most designs was largely neutral — think tones of precious metals like gold and silver alongside classic black and white. Blue has long been a signature hue when a pop of color is needed, and, of course, there are those exceptional pieces with colorful stones, enamel, or miniature painting. However, in modern watchmaking, the use of color has become a crucial element and goes beyond the dial or strap to the case or bracelet and even elements of the movement.  

Hublot

With the expanded use of color in contemporary watchmaking, its application is no longer purely aesthetic and goes hand in hand with material innovation. There are a few brands who are mastering this intersection (or rather marriage) between color and material, and one such brand is Hublot. 

When you think of some of the most audacious names in watchmaking, Hublot most certainly comes to mind. The company has been one of watchmaking’s most innovative in terms of materials, and their bold design choices have been marked by equally innovative use of color. Today, the brand’s signature Big Bang line is available in every color of the rainbow, thanks to a diverse catalog of materials including sapphire, ceramic, rubber, and precious stones that make up collections like the One Click Joyful. 

Grand Seiko

That said, the more traditional approach of using  color only on the dial shouldn’t be discounted. Grand Seiko is an excellent example of a brand whose use of color is often restricted to the dial, but it’s done with purpose. The Japanese brand arguably produces some of the most exceptional dials in the industry, and like Hublot, the use of color goes beyond aesthetics — for Grand Seiko, color holds meaning. Its vast choice of dial colors each reflect an element of the brand’s Japanese roots from the verdant peaks of the Hotaka Mountains to the blooms of the cherry blossoms. 

NOMOS Glashütte

For other brands, the use of color can be considered an act of rebellion against tradition, or perhaps proof that tradition and modernity can go hand and hand. German watchmaking has an instantly recognizable design language, marked by simplicity and clean lines. NOMOS watches fully embody this classic approach. However, NOMOS pushes the bounds of these aesthetic codes by incorporating color. By all measures, the Tangente line is as minimalist as a watch can be — round case, sleek hour markers, no frills. Then, in a single year, NOMOS issued the model in a combination of 31 different colors, breathing new life into the design. 

Oris

Color can also come from the most unlikely sources of inspiration, and here we get back to yet another way material and color go hand in hand. Oris is a brand who puts sustainability at the forefront, from key partnerships like the one with the Billion Oyster Project to employing recycled PET plastic collected from ocean cleanups in its designs. Here, the brand’s signature diver serves as backdrop for the multi-colored, marbled dials that result from the manufacturing process of melting down the upcycled plastics. 

Ressence

In today’s approach to watchmaking, it’s clear that the use of color is no longer just about style and trends. In fact, some watchmakers harness the power of color and its ability to express information, create contrast, and enhance functionality as well as readability. This is one of the pillars on which Benoît Mintiens built the brand Ressence. The maison pioneered the Time by Color system, a 24-hour display that relies on four colors — one for morning, midday, afternoon, and night — allowing the time of day to be read at a glance.